Old-Fashioned Pine Tar Salve

http://www.hobbyfarms.com/hobby-farms-editorial-blogs/craft-hub/old-fashioned-pine-tar-salve.aspx

Jan Berry
Hobby Farms Guest Blogger

Some of us grew up with a grandma or great-grandma who kept a jar of black salve on hand for all manner of skin ailments. Every family had their own special recipe, but it usually contained ingredients like tallow, lard, pine tar, chimney soot, or sometimes even onions and flour. It was thick and smelly, but it worked like a charm!

This modern-day adaptation of an old-fashioned home remedy will fill a 2-ounce glass jar. Because a little bit goes a long way, a single batch will last a family for several months. You can easily double or triple the amounts though, if a larger supply is needed.

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup herb-infused olive, sunflower, or other light oil
• 1 to 2 teaspoons beeswax
• 1/2 tablespoon pine tar
• 1/4 teaspoon activated charcoal

Preparation
For best results, infuse the oil with dried herbs first. Check your yard for plantain or violet leaves or use dried rose, calendula or lavender flowers. Let them air dry on a clean dishcloth for a few days until crumbly. Place the dried herbs in a small jar and pour twice as much oil over them. Cover the top with cheesecloth or a scrap of old T-shirt, using a rubber band to secure in place. Let the jar sit in a sunny window for a few days (or weeks) before straining. Store any leftover finished oil in a cool, dark place for up to one year.

For easiest cleanup, repurpose a used tin can to make this salve. You could also use a small, heat-proof canning jar.

Measure the oil and beeswax into the can or jar, and set it in a saucepan containing 1 to 2 inches water, creating a makeshift double boiler. Use 1 teaspoon beeswax for a softer ointment consistency or 2 teaspoons for a firmer salve. Heat on medium-low until the beeswax has melted.

Remove the jar from heat, and stir in the pine tar and charcoal with a disposable spoon. Immediately pour into a small glass jar and let cool before capping. Because of its strong drawing nature, avoid storing in metal tins or plastic containers, as the salve could potentially pull impurities from them over time. Shelf life is at least a year.

Use It

Dab a small amount on a bug bite, splinter, boil or other skin irritation. Cover with a bandage for several hours or overnight. Wash off and repeat as necessary.

Maker’s Tips

• Pine tar can usually be found in in the horse section of your local feed store. It can be made two different ways: open kiln or kiln method. Because the open-kiln method could potentially produce small amounts of creosote (a carcinogen), try to find the closed-kiln type for this project. A popular brand for making salves and soaps is Auson http://www.amazon.com/Kiln-Burn-Pine-Tar-Liter/dp/B000P7K46S. Unfortunately, because it's imported from Sweden, it's also quite expensive. For brands you find locally, check their website or customer service number to help determine the type of pine tar they offer. They won't be able to advise you on use for humans, though, as their products are only tested and intended as a horse-hoof treatment.
  
• Activated charcoal is recommended to have on hand for poison control or food poisoning. You can usually find it in a drug store, pharmacy section of your grocery store or a health store. If you can only get it in capsules, just break open enough of them to reach the 1/4 teaspoon needed for the recipe.
  
• Castor oil makes a wonderful addition to this salve and can be used for part of the oil portion.
  
• Place a piece of wax paper over your work area when handling pine tar and activated charcoal. If spilled, they could stain light-colored countertops. The finished salve will also stain clothing, so apply carefully.
  
• While this is an excellent home remedy for minor ailments, consult with a qualified health care professional for serious injuries and wounds.

The Many Benefits of Hugelkultur

Hugelkultur are no-dig raised beds with a difference. They hold moisture, build fertility, maximize surface volume and are great spaces for growing fruit, vegetables and herbs.

http://www.permaculture.co.uk/articles/many-benefits-hugelkultur

Hugelkultur, pronounced Hoo-gul-culture, means hill culture or hill mound.

Instead of putting branches, leaves and grass clippings in bags by the curbside for the bin men... build a hugel bed. Simply mound logs, branches, leaves, grass clippings, straw, cardboard, petroleum-free newspaper, manure, compost or whatever other biomass you have available, top with soil and plant your veggies.

The advantages of a hugel bed are many, including:

The gradual decay of wood is a consistent source of long-term nutrients for the plants. A large bed might give out a constant supply of nutrients for 20 years (or even longer if you use only hardwoods). The composting wood also generates heat which should extend the growing season.

Soil aeration increases as those branches and logs break down... meaning the bed will be no till, long term.

The logs and branches act like a sponge. Rainwater is stored and then released during drier times. Actually you may never need to water your hugel bed again after the first year (except during long term droughts).

Sequester carbon into the soil.

On a sod lawn Sepp Holzer (hugelkultur expert) recommends cutting out the sod, digging a one foot deep trench and filling the trench with logs and branches. Then cover the logs with the upside down turf. On top of the turf add grass clippings, seaweed, compost, aged manure, straw, green leaves, mulch, etc... 

Hugel bed in Ontario, Canada (By Travis Philip)

Hugelkulter from permies.com: Pallets used around periphery

Steeped raised beds: From 'Sepp Holzer's Permaculture'

Sepp Holzer recommends steep hugel beds to avoid compaction from increased pressure over time. Steep beds mean more surface area in your garden for plants and the height makes easy harvesting. The greater the mass, the greater the water-retention benefits.

Vertical logs

Hugel bed dug in clay with logs put in vertically, next branches and lots of wood chips. Top 6" will be wood chips and dirt. This bed will store water and give nutrients for many years to come.

Straw bale gardens require less soil, less water and hold heat. As the straw breaks down nutrients feed the plants. Combining a straw surround with a hugel interior, topped by lasagne layering is an excellent idea for an area with poor quality soil.

Hugel bed in Ontario, Canada (June 28) by Tim Burrows. Tim surrounded his very tall hugel bed in pallets!

Sheet mulching (lasagne gardening) is like composting in place. Above: just a suggestion as to sheet mulching layers. Nitrogen-rich material such as fresh grass clippings or green leaves put right on the hugelkultur wood would help jump start the composting process. Could also include seaweed, straw, dead leaves, leaf mould, etc...

The first year of break down means the wood (and fungi) steal a lot of the nitrogen out of the surrounding environment, so adding nitrogen during the first year or planting crops that add nitrogen to the soil (like legumes) or planting species with minimal nitrogen requirements is necessary, unless there is plenty of organic material on top of the wood. After the wood absorbs nitrogen to its fill, the wood will start to break down and start to give nitrogen back in the process. In the end you will be left with a beautiful bed of nutrient rich soil.

Tree types that work well in hugelkultur:

Hardwoods break down slowly and therefore your hugel bed will last longer, hold water for more years and add nutrients for more years. But softwoods are acceptable as well, a softwood bed will just disintegrate quicker. Mixing woods with softwoods and branches on top, to give off nutrients first, and hardwoods on bottom, sounds like a plan if you have access to multiple types of wood. Yet the newly decomposing softwoods at top will eat up a lot of nitrogen at first, so compensate for that.

Woods that work best:
Alders, apple, aspen, birch, cottonwood, maple, oak, poplar, willow (make sure it is dead or it will sprout).

Trees types that work okay:
Black cherry (use only rotted), camphor wood (well aged), cedar/juniper/yew (anti-microbial/anti-fungal, so use only at very bottom or unless already well aged. Cedar should be broken down before new plant roots reach it), eucalyptus (slightly anti-microbial), osage orange (exceptionally resistant to decay), Pacific yew (exceptionally resistant to decay), pine/fir/spruce (tannins and sap), red mulberry (exceptionally resistant to decay).

Tree types to avoid:
Black locust (will not decompose), black walnut (juglone toxin), old growth redwood (heartwood will not decompose and redwood compost can prevent seed germination).

This article was cross-posted from www.inspirationgreen.com/hugelkultur.html

Further resources

Want to learn more about huglekultur beds? We highly recommend Sepp Holzer's Permaculture, a ground breaking book that will teach you all you need to know! (Also available as an eBook) (For US readers, you can buy from Chelsea Green HERE)

Desert or Paradise by Sepp Holzer (For US readers, you can buy from Chelsea Green here)

How to make hugelkultur raised beds in Permaculture 68 as a pdf

Small-scale hugelkulter in raised beds

How to make vertical raised beds for urban green spaces

Video: How to make a hugelkultur bed

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What is Rabbit Tobacco?

Though it is strongly aromatic, it has no narcotic properties. 

Research shows that most, if not all herbalists, past and present, deem it OK to inhale the smoke to treat colds, flu, asthma, sore mouth and throat, and congestion. The herb can be placed in a saucer and lighted, and the smoke drawn into the lungs, smoked in a pipe or rolled into a cigarette. My take on it is that one should use it when needed for the above mentioned medicinal needs. One can also use the plant to make tea, bring to a boil and breathe in the vapors to good effect. The Cherokee people are reported to have used it in this way.  It can also be used to season many dishes, as desired.

Rabbit Tobacco (also called Life Everlasting) has a long history of use by early American settlers and several Indian Tribes. In spite of its name, this marvelous organic herb is not in the tobacco family and is not addictive.  

EFFECTIVE AS AN INSECT AND SPIDER (arachnide family) repellent.

This organic plant makes an excellent herbal tea, with the added bonus of being medicinal. Use either leaves or flowers; both give you a superb product.  

". . . A spoonful of the dried leaves steeped for five minutes in a cup of boiling water will soothe coughs, open up the sinuses and act as an expectorant. Swallowed, its’ healing astringent nature is particularly beneficial to inflamed tissues of the stomach and intestines. . ." 

Darryl Patton, M.A., M.H.

Director - Coltsfoot College of Natural Health

http://rabbittobacco.homestead.com/Articles.html

Rabbit Tobacco

Family:    Asteraceae

Genus:    Pseudognaphalium 

Species: obtusifolium 

Taxon:    Pseudognaphalium obtusifolium

This wonderful herb is also known by other names: Sweet-everlasting, Life-everlasting, Indian-posey, Old-field-posey, Cherokee-tobacco, White-balsam, Fussy-gussy, Life-of-man, Sweet-scented, Sweet-white-balsam, Fragrant-life-everlasting, Catsfoot, Sweet-cudweed, Blunt-leaved-everlasting.

Strew or place Rabbit Tobacco Strips in the below areas to combat pests such as these.

See Disclaimer below.

WINDOW SILLS
CLOSETS (Where Clothes Moths & other bugs often take up residence)
UNDER BEDS
UNDER MATTRESS SLIP
UNDER CHAIRS  & COUCHES
IN AIR VENTS
UNDER & BEHIND APPLIANCES
UNDER KITCHEN SINKS
ATTACH TO INSIDE BOTTOM OF DOORS
GARAGE
UNDER LAWN MOWER COVERS
UNDER DASHES AND SEATS OF VEHICLES
OUTDOOR BUILDINGS
SLEEPING BAGS
TENTS (Place strips at ground level)
BIRD HOUSES & CAGES (If birds accept the aroma they will have less mites to contend with)
DOG HOUSES & BEDS (will help combat fleas if your pet/s will accept the aroma)
CAT HOUSES & BEDS  (will help combat fleas if your pet/s will accept the aroma)
IN MAILBOXES (Where Black Widow & Brown Recluse spiders often take up residence).
         UNDER AUTOMOBILE SEATS & DASH (First, place the rabbit tobacco in silk stockings).

These strips can be used in many other areas, such as industrial sites, health providers, hospitals, clothing store storage, restaurant food preparation areas, and the like.

Disclaimer:  We do not guarantee that all insects, spiders, scorpions, moths and the like, will be eradicated by the use of rabbit tobacco. However, based on its use at selected homes (one of which is mine) and outbuildings, this herb has proven to be very effective. Put it out and leave it for a few weeks.
http://www.rabbittobacco.com/

Gnaphalium obtusifolium. Unmistakable by its creamy appearance in the still green background of the early fall meadows. Leaves long, elliptical and silver green colored. Plant up to one meter high. Unusual fragrance. Can be smoked for respiratory ailments or made into a relaxing tea. A common tobacco substitute used by children in rural areas. It is said to have a mild sedative effect.
Contrary to popular belief, rabbit tobacco is not marijuana.
Rabbit tobacco can be used medicinally in several ways. Smoking the leaves is good for sinusitis, head colds, and congestion. In hot teas, it is used to treat sore throats, fevers, diarrhea, colds, flu, pneumonia, asthma, and coughs, as well as a mild nerve sedative, a diuretic, and an antispasmodic.

It is know by many other names: life everlasting, sweet balsam, white balsam, sweet cudweed, cat's foot, fragrant everlasting, Indian posy, etc.
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Rabbit+Tobacco

Gnaphalium spicatum, shiny cudweed, develops from a distinct round silver-white rosette of leaves that grows flat on the ground. Gnaphalium purpureum, purple cudweed, has the gray-white narrow leaves along the stem that you probably think of as rabbit tobacco. All cudweeds grow as annual or biennial plants. The best way to propagate more is to collect seeds from mature flower heads now and plant them in spring.
http://www.walterreeves.com/gardening-q-and-a/rabbit-tobacco/

14 Simple Gardening Tips and Tricks

From using leftover coffee beans to preventing dirt from getting underneath fingernails, master gardener Paul James shares his top 14 tips and shortcuts to make spring gardening a breeze.

Here, the latest tips and tricks from Paul James, host of Gardening by the Yard:

1. To remove the salt deposits that form on clay pots, combine equal parts white vinegar, rubbing alcohol and water in a spray bottle. Apply the mixture to the pot and scrub with a plastic brush. Let the pot dry before you plant anything in it.

2. To prevent accumulating dirt under your fingernails while you work in the garden, draw your fingernails across a bar of soap and you'll effectively seal the undersides of your nails so dirt can't collect beneath them. Then, after you've finished in the garden, use a nailbrush to remove the soap and your nails will be sparkling clean.

3. To prevent the line on your string trimmer from jamming or breaking, treat with a spray vegetable oil before installing it in the trimmer.

4. Turn a long-handled tool into a measuring stick! Lay a long-handled garden tool on the ground, and next to it place a tape measure. Using a permanent marker, write inch and foot marks on the handle. When you need to space plants a certain distance apart (from just an inch to several feet) you'll already have a measuring device in your hand.

5. To have garden twine handy when you need it, just stick a ball of twine in a small clay pot, pull the end of the twine through the drainage hole, and set the pot upside down in the garden. Do that, and you'll never go looking for twine again.

6. Little clay pots make great cloches for protecting young plants from sudden, overnight frosts and freezes.

7. To turn a clay pot into a hose guide, just stab a roughly one-foot length of steel reinforcing bar into the ground at the corner of a bed and slip two clay pots over it: one facing down, the other facing up. The guides will prevent damage to your plants as you drag the hose along the bed.

8. To create perfectly natural markers, write the names of plants (using a permanent marker) on the flat faces of stones of various sizes and place them at or near the base of your plants.

9. Got aphids? You can control them with a strong blast of water from the hose or with insecticidal soap. But here's another suggestion, one that's a lot more fun; get some tape! Wrap a wide strip of tape around your hand, sticky side out, and pat the leaves of plants infested with aphids. Concentrate on the undersides of leaves, because that's where the little buggers like to hide.

10. The next time you boil or steam vegetables, don't pour the water down the drain, use it to water potted patio plants, and you'll be amazed at how the plants respond to the "vegetable soup."

11. Use leftover tea and coffee grounds to acidify the soil of acid-loving plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, gardenias and even blueberries. A light sprinkling of about one-quarter of an inch applied once a month will keep the pH of the soil on the acidic side.

12. Use chamomile tea to control damping-off fungus, which often attacks young seedlings quite suddenly. Just add a spot of tea to the soil around the base of seedlings once a week or use it as a foliar spray.

13. If you need an instant table for tea service, look no farther than your collection of clay pots and saucers. Just flip a good-sized pot over, and top it off with a large saucer. And when you've had your share of tea, fill the saucer with water, and your "table" is now a birdbath.

14. The quickest way in the world to dry herbs: just lay a sheet of newspaper on the seat of your car, arrange the herbs in a single layer, then roll up the windows and close the doors. Your herbs will be quickly dried to perfection. What's more, your car will smell great.

http://www.hgtv.com/gardening/14-simple-gardening-tips-and-tricks/index.html?soc=sharingfb